Double Plastic Climbing Boots with Aveolite Liners. Good quality
plastic shells with inner boots. Avoid tight fit with heavy socks. Sugg: Koflach
Artis Expedition, Scarpa Invernos, or One Sport Everest.
Fully Insulated Overboots. Suggested: 40 Below K2 Overboots,
Outdoor Research Brooks Rangers. Not needed w/ One Sport Everest.
Light hiking boots.
Crampons. With "step in" bindings and flat rather than "cookie
cutter" frame rails. Suggested: Charlet Moser Super 12 Rapidfix Lanieres,
Grivel G12 New-Matic, or Black Diamond Sabertooth.
Gaiters. Suggested: Outdoor Research Expedition "Crocodiles".
Not needed with One Sport Everest Boots.
Booties. Polar guard. Optional.
Wool or pile socks. 4 pair of Heavyweight wool or synthetic socks
(wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks. When layering socks,
check fit over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one fresh, dry pairof
socks available at all times.
Liner Socks. 4 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be
worn next to the skin. This reduces incidence of blisters and hot-spots.
Vapor barrier socks. Optional.
Ice Axe w/Leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important:
under 5'7" use a 60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool; over
6'1" use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). Suggested: SMC
Himalayan or Black Diamond Alpamayo.
Carabiners (4) Locking; (6) Regular. 2 HMS Twistlock & 2 small
screwgate lockers; 6 standard ovals recommended.
Ascenders (2). Petzls recommended. One right and one left.
Rappel device. 1 Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid.
Perlon. 40 ft of flexible 6mm.
Alpine Climbing Harness. Harness should fit over all clothing, have
gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang
suspended in. Make sure you can get into the harness without having to step
through any part of it. Suggested: Black Diamond Bod Harness or Alpine Bod w/
Adjustable Ski/Trekking Poles. Optional, but recommended.
Suggested: Leki, Life Link.
Expedition weight underwear. 1 pair Polypro or Capilene.
Lightweight Underwear. 2-3 pair top & bottom, Capilene, other
synthetic or wool. No Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more
versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder).
Zip-T-neck tops allow more ventilation options. One set of white for intense
sunny days on the glacier and one pair of dark for faster drying gives the most
versatility. Suggested: North Face Micronamics, Marmot DriClime, or Patagonia
Pile Jacket Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300). A full-zip version
is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pull-over. Windstopper
fleece is NOT recommended due to reduced breathability. Suggested: North Face
Polar Sun or equivalent.
Pile Pants. Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300) with full separating
side zippers (This is very important for ventilation and for ease of
dressing up or down when conditions change in the middle of a climb).
Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or equivalent.
Down Pants. To fit over insulation layers. Outer shell must be
windproof. Suggested: Feathered Friends Helios or Volant.
Down Parka. (Fully Baffled, Expedition Weight, must have good hood)
Suggested: North Face Baltoro, Mt. Hardwear Absolute Zero, Marmot
8000meter, or Feathered Friends Rock & Ice.
Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood.
(Bibs recommended) For the jacket we highly recommend a long front zipper, a
roomy rather than snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the armpit.
We also require full separating side zippers on the pants. Suggested:
North Face Mtn. Bib or Mtn. Light Pant, Mtn. Hardware Exposure Bib or
Sleeping Bag. (Expedition quality rated to at least -300F).
Goose down preferred for bulk & weight. Suggested: North Face Inferno,
Feathered Friends Snow Goose, or Marmot CWM.
2 Sleeping Pads. One, 3/4 or full-length closed-cell foam Ridge Rest
and One, 3/4 length or full-length Therma-Rest w/repair kit.
Mitts & Gloves
2 Pair Synthetic Gloves. Bunting or fleece gloves which will fit
comfortably inside mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of keeping hands
warmer when wet than lighter polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested: North Face,
2 Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts. Outdoor Research
Expeditions w/double liners or North Face Down Mitts. Should be big enoughso
that gloves fit inside pile liners.
Hand warmer. Optional.
Baseball Cap or other Sun Hat. One with a good visor to shade the
nose and eyes. Include a bandanna to shade the neck.
Wool or pile ski hat. Make sure ears are covered.
Balaclava (1) Heavy weight, (1) Lightweight.
Suggested: North Face. Heavyweight must fit over lightweight.
Neoprene face mask. Optional
Head lamp (Plenty of extra bulbs & batteries).
Suggested: Petzl Zoom or Artic.
2 Pairs of Glacier glasses. 100% UV, high quality optical lenses
designed for mountain use, must have full side covers. We highly recommend a
removable nose guard. Suggested: Bolle, RayBan, Julbo Round "Arc". If
you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a
good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent
light-sensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear
glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (dark gray or green). No more
than 6% light transmission.
Ski Goggles, 1 pair. 100% UV & IR. Bolle's Chrono work well.
Climbers with glasses try X-700, they fit over glasses.
Backpack. Internal frame pack expandable to 6,000 cu.in.
Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers, etc which add weight.
Recommended: North Face, Kelty, Gregory.
Daypack. Optional for trekking days.
Swiss Army knife.
1 Liter Thermos.
Cup: 16oz. plastic with snap-on lid (retains heat well and is
spill resistant in the tent).
Spoon: Good quality tough plastic attached with cord (lexan).
Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity.
Water Bottles: 2 liters minimum capacity. One, 1.5 liter & One .5
liter wide-mouth. Hunnersdorf are recommended (they withstand temperature
extremes and abuse better than Nalgene)
No water bags or bladder systems, they freeze.
Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth water bottle. Mark bottle clearly.
Pee Funnel (for women). Suggested: Freshette.
Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes.
Lipscreen. SPF 40 or better, at least 2 sticks.
Personal first aid kit. Aspirin, Moleskin, Adhesive tape, Band-Aids,
Large duffel bags. 2 for transporting gear.
Compression Stuff Sacks work well for reducing volume (optional)
Especially for sleeping bags and clothing.
4 Plastic Bags. To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry and one large
enough to line pack. Trash Compactor bags work the best.
Toiletry bag. Include toilet paper.
Camera gear. Optional
Book of Far Side cartoons to keep your spirits up. A must