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Rockclimbing: Laliderer - "Lali Pause"  (at)   Renkfälle 

Date: August 2003
Partner: Andi Fichtner, Lothar Klingel
Routes: Lalidererspitze - Direkte Nordwand  - 7  (M.Rebitsch)
  • The 'Direkte Nordwand' on the Laliderer is a classic from the famous "Pause"-book
  • it was also one of ugliest walls I have climbed: Lots of loose and brittle rock 
    on the climb and on the descent took away much of the pleasure of climing ...
Report We left the parking lot at Eng at 6AM, reached the wall at 7:30 and wasted the time until 9AM
searching for the start, because of a mismatch in Topos. Normally you will find the tour easily
on the very right of the wall, just left of the Herzogkante.
In the beginning there were many pitons, the route obvious and the rock was pretty decent. 
This changed soon and halfway up, the rock became really bad. Also there were less and
less pitons. Sometimes the belays were only 2 shaky pitons, with no chance to add additional
clean pro.  We also missed the place where the tour leaves the 'canyon' to the right to go
around the second pillar. Therefore we opened the 'Diretissima of the Direkte' climbing straight
up to the belay on the top second pillar (not good: difficult & loose rock)
We reached the Top at 6:30 and then fell in love with the beautiful bivouac hut, so we stayed

The descent on the next moring was going down a canyon with more loose gravel, just very ugly ...

Anyway: This was an interesting tour, and kudos to M. Rebitsch for boing this at such an early time.