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We left the parking lot at
Eng at 6AM, reached the wall at 7:30 and wasted the time until 9AM
searching for the start, because of a mismatch in Topos. Normally
you will find the tour easily
on the very right of the wall, just left of the Herzogkante.
In the beginning there were many pitons, the route obvious and the
rock was pretty decent.
This changed soon and halfway up, the rock became really bad. Also
there were less and
less pitons. Sometimes the belays were only 2 shaky pitons, with no
chance to add additional
clean pro. We also missed the place where the tour leaves the
'canyon' to the right to go
around the second pillar. Therefore we opened the 'Diretissima of
the Direkte' climbing straight
up to the belay on the top second pillar (not good: difficult &
loose rock)
We reached the Top at 6:30 and then fell in love with the beautiful
bivouac hut, so we stayed
overnight.
The descent on the next
moring was going down a canyon with more loose gravel, just very
ugly ...
Anyway: This was an
interesting tour, and kudos to M. Rebitsch for boing this at such an
early time.
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