Ice: Breitwangfluh (ch) - 'Crack Baby' & 'Beta-Block Super'
 		 prev. next exit  1
Date: Feb. 2003
Partner: Andi Fichtner
Conditions: Good : no running water, despite the warm weather elsewhere,  the last 2 pitches were even a bit brittle 
Comment:
  • The Breitwangfluh has the longest ice-routes in Europe (except for the Gramusat wall in the Ecrins)
  • This tour was the reward for several weekends of training before
  • Crack Baby consists of a lot of steep pitches over columns and other interesting forms of ice. 
    Definitely the most demanding long tour I've done so far

Update, 6.Jan.2005

Since my first visit at Breitwangfluh, I was fascinated by this massive wall and the long icefalls. I had to come back
and this year the lines formed well again. The column of Beta-Block Super was ~ 1m wide at the base but had a 3cm
gap at the bottom and was therefore vibrating modestly.Three belays are bolted and great for the rappels
Will Gadd was doing another route at the end of the valley and took some pictures of us while we were climbing.
Report also at http://www.basislager.ch/az/eis.php#4836

   

 
Overview: Beta Block   
& Crack Baby		  
We as little dots
on the column		  
On the
column		  
The Team: Ulli,
Christian, Andi		  

Logistics

As I was asked several times now how to get there, here is a little more info:
The Breitwangfluh is a side-valley of the main valley running towards Kandersteg. It is higher than the main
valley and most people simplify the approach by taking the cable car. Here is how to find that: Drive to
Kandersteg and the village before is called Blausee (time to wake up! ;-) : After that you pass underneath a
railway bridge and you are in 'Mitholz'. Now take the first small 90 degree road left uphill, sign to the
railway-station. There is another bridge you pass through and at the railway-station make a 300 degree turn
right up and you see the little wooden cable-car station hut. All this is within a short distance, as you can
see on these maps: (Overview: you can see the cable-car as a red line above the word 'Mitholz' & Detail)

     

The cable car has 4 seats only and is run on demand, and not on a schedule in winter. The operator will
start it for you as early as 6 'o clock if you're lucky. You'll have to call and ask him. The numbers

The cable car will take you to the Alp 'Giesenen', which is the name of a few houses cuddled together up
there, occupied only in the summer. There is no accommodation and water only if you're lucky and the well
is not frozen. You can stay overnight on the floor of the cable-car station (sometimes there is some straw),
if you want to catch an early start, so no tents are needed. Here are the telephone numbers (Jan.05)
  land-line: 0041-33-6712477   mobile (SMS-for going down welcome): 0041-79-4053931